I’m wary of going out for Italian food. A good Italian meal is a great treat but there’s so much crappy Italian food out there that I find it difficult to sort through the bad ones and just find the good. At least when I go out for Chinese food, I’m getting something I don’t typically cook myself. But, there’s no way I’m paying $12 for a pasta with a vegetable and meat when I can make that myself. Still, I was absolutely wowed by the place, located below Hell’s Kitchen and really close to a Lincoln Tunnel entrance. In other words, the neighborhood is erm, far from beautiful. But, it is so pleasant inside the restaurant that you forget all the litter sitting on the sidewalk outside.
Osteria Gelsi was nearly empty when we dined there recently on a Saturday night and the service was near perfect. It is a great place for a romantic yet not too pricey date, or a place to take friends or family whose palates are not too exotic, but know how to appreciate a good meal. I cannot stop raving about this place to friends.
Appetizer
Affettato Di Cinghiale (paper think slices of wild boar with mesclun, eggplant, cherry tomatoes, and a pear wine reduction: This was my first wild boar experience but hopefully not my last. It tasted like a mix between beef and pork but lighter than both. The mesclun and tomatoes were very fresh the reduction was perfect-subtle enough to notice the taste but not overwhelming.
Entrees
Timballo (layers of wide ribbon pasta bechamel, meat ragu, and parmigiano reggiano): Probably the best lasagna-esque meal I’ve ever had. The cheese on top of the round circle of deliciousness was baked so crisp and wonderfully and went perfectly with the soft pasta and meat sauce that was heavy but appropriately so. I’m drooling just thinking about it.
Conchiglie Cavolflori Gamberi (tiny pasta shells with cauliflower, red onion, garlic, capers, anchovies, olives, shrimp and broccoli): The sauce was so delicate but worked so amazingly with the ingredients. Pasta does not impress me–this one did.
I would gladly go back–there are so many more things on the menu to try!
Rating: 
509 9th Ave at 38th. www.gelsinyc.com (note, website is down as of this post)
Posted by chewandswallow 